How To Choose An Eyelash Extension Style To Suit Your Eye Shape

If you’ve watched many makeup tutorials online you’ve probably run into the topic of ‘eye shape’

where depending on your natural eye shape, you’ll be more suited to certain styles of makeup that accentuate different areas, make the eye look more open, or create other looks.

It’s kind of like those face shape charts that tell you what style of sunglasses you should wear.

This is the same thing, but not many people know that there are actually different styles of eyelash extensions. In fact, many lash salons don’t even offer different styles, and will instead just lay you down and start adding extensions as soon as your appointment begins. If this happens, do your best to escape because you’ve probably found a bad lash tech!

So first lets look at the 4 main eyelash extension styles, then we’ll go over each eye shape and match the two together.

A note on lash extension styles: Even though there are 4 main styles, there can be large variations in length, thickness of lash, curl, and number of lashes applied, as well as crossovers between styles. So a good lash tech will be able to tailor your lashes to suit not only your eye shape, but your preferences and personal style too!

So let’s get started…

The Natural Eye

Natural Eyelash Extension Style

The goal of this look is to keep the lashes looking natural. To make it seem like you are one of the lucky few to have long, full lashes.

The natural eye follows the same contours of your natural eyelashes. Fairly consistent length across the eyelid, with a little less on the inner and outer edges. Extensions of mixed lengths right along the eye to mimic lashes in all stages of the natural growth cycle.

The Open Eye

Open Eyelash Extension Style

This style accentuates the centre of the eye by adding volume and length toward the centre of the eyelid, tapering down at each end creating a symmetrical graduation.

Traditionally this style would use lashes around 8mm for the corners, going up to between 12 and 14mm for the centre of the eyelid.

The Cat Eye

Cat Eyelash Extension Style

You might be familiar with this style from eye makeup tutorials where eyeliner is used to create a swish on the outer corner of the eye…

The same can be done with eyelash extensions, but in a way that seems more dramatic and feminine.

The lashes begin at the inner corner at their shortest length and gradually taper up as you move toward the outer corner reaching their maximum length at the outer corner. The difference in length is around 50% more by the time we reach the outer corner. So a starting lash of 9mm on the inner corner would result in an outer corner lash of 14mm.

There is also typically a small decrease in length and right at the very end to taper in a little, usually if the maximum length is 14mm, the very corner might taper down to 13mm.

A slight variation of the Cat Eye is the ‘Kitten Eye’ which is the exact same idea, but the disparity between shortest and longest lash is closer to 25%, so an inner corner lash of 9mm would result in an outer corner lash of closer to 11-12mm.

Taylor Swift is regularly seen with the Cat Eye style lash extensions that are perfect for her upturned eyes.

The Baby Doll Eye

Baby Doll Eyelash Extension Style

Some would say a cross between the natural and open eye styles, the Doll Eye is characterised by length right across the eyeline with the longest lashes being focused on the middle of the eye.

This look will make our eyes appear bigger and fuller but not to such an extent as the open eye style will.

Megan Fox is well known for having classic Doll Eye lash extensions.

Now that we’ve got the 4 basic lash extension styles covered, let’s move on to figuring out what shape your eye is, and then I’ll give a recommendation of which lash style will match your eye shape – but that’s just a starting point – A good lash technician will be able to offer more specific advise based on your personal style and whether the lashes are for an event, or for day to day life.

Let’s start with a little…

Eye Shape Basics

There are only three main eye shape categories. Almond, oval and round…

Then there are dozens more subcategories where small differences like eye angle, size, closeness and traits of the eyelid allow for more precise recommendations.

You’ll also notice that you can fit into multiple categories, for example you might have round, close set, upturned eyes – effectively placing you in three categories. In that case you should choose the category that’s most prominent.

Now, if you’ve watched many makeup tutorials you’ll know that the ‘Almond’ eye shape is the most sought after, so makeup styles will aim to give your eye the appearance of having an Almond shape by emphasising or drawing attention away from parts of the eye through contouring and other makeup techniques.

For this article I’ve chosen eight of the most common eye types I see in my salon. Those being Almond, close set, deep set, protruding, down turned, single lidded, round and hooded eyes.

So let’s get your eye categorised and give you some lash extension style recommendations!

Almond Eye

 Almond eyes shape

In conventional beauty the almond eye shape is the most alluring and attractive. The description of this eye shape is in its name – shapes like an almond, so the length is greater than the height and there is a slight upward flick at the outer corners.

Lash Extension Recommendations for Almond Eyes

You’re lucky because any style will look great, so its more of a personal preference. Choosing the cat eye style will emphasise the length of your eye and give a very alluring and mysterious look.

With the open eye or doll eye you’ll make your eyes look bigger – this can be a great option if you’re going for a more dramatic look, or if you’ve got an eye colour that stands out like green or blue.

Close Set Eyes

 Close Set Eyes

This is an eye spacing category rather than an eye shape, and it’s characterised by a gap between the eyes of less than one eye. So if you measure the length of your eye from outer to inner corner, then measure the space from the inner corner of your left and right eyes – if the second measurement is smaller than the first then you’d fall into the ‘close set’ eyes category.

Lash Extension Recommendations for Close Set Eyes

The goal here would be to draw attention to the outer corner of the eye by adding longer lashes in that area in the style of the cat eye. Creating additional length on the lashes in the outer corner and gradually shorter lengths moving toward the inner corner will make a big difference here.

Deep Set Eyes

 Deep Set Eyes

Again we’re in the realm of an eye position rather than a shape, but this eye type has its own style guide…

The deep set eye simply sits deeper into the eye socket. So the objective for lash style is to make it seem to come out more.

Since makeup is a 2D application (meaning it sits flat on your skin) and lash extensions are 3D (meaning they stick out and create depth) – if you have deep set eyes its actually far more effective to get eyelash extensions because we can really create added depth.

Lash Extension Recommendations for Deep Set Eyes

To help bring the eye out I usually recommend the baby doll or open eye lash style because these really create the illusion of the eye sitting further out.

If your eyes also fall into the round category then choose the baby doll, whereas other shapes (especially the hooded eye) should opt for the open eye lash style.

Protruding Eyes

 Protruding Eyes

The opposite of deep set eyes, protruding eyes are those that sit further out of the eye socket and I would estimate that 80% of the time are also round in eye shape.

Because you’ve already got large round eyes (which makes you very lucky!) you don’t want to make them seem any bigger or wider since it can give that ‘shocked’ look.

The goal here is to add emphasis to the outer corners.

Lash Extension Recommendations for Protruding Eyes

Choose the Cat Eye style or a variation of it like the kitten eye which is a shorter version. Adding the extra length and fullness in the outer corners of your eyes will simulate that almond shape and really draw attention to your big beautiful eyes.

Downturned Eyes

Downturned Eyes

This one’s more of an ‘eye angle’ where the outer corner of the eye sits directly across from (on a horizontal plane) or below the inner corner of the eye.

Lash Extension Recommendations for Downturned Eyes

Here out aim will be to create volume on the upper outer corner of the eyes to help lift the eye. The downturned eye is perfect for the Cat Eye lash style and as long as you have the natural lashes to support them you can certainly pull off long extensions up to 14mm in that outer corner.

Hooded Eyes

Hooded Eyes

This means you have a little extra skin right above the crease of your eye. This can vary greatly, from a slight almost indistinguishable hood, all the way to an overlapping hood that can sit on top of the lash line.

Lash Extension Recommendations for Hooded Eyes

In this case we want to open up the eye, so of course this is the perfect match for the Open Eye style. We add fullness and length to the centre of the eye tapering off as we move closer to the inner and outer corners.

Using the Open Eye style on hooded eyes always creates dramatic before and after photos because it can add a lot more depth and bring attention into the eye itself.

Monolid / Single Lid Eyes

Monolid Eye Shape

Most common with Asian women, single lidded eyes have no visible crease so lash extensions can create the appearance of a more open and larger eye shape.

Another thing to note is that Asian women also typically have straighter lashes, so choosing a curl with more flare will create added drama, and openness.

Lash Extension Recommendations for Monolid Eyes

A cross between a Baby Doll for a natural look and a bit of Cats Eye to add extra length to the outer corners always looks great and accentuates that elongated eye shape making it even more appealing.

Round Eyes

Round Eye Shape

If you’ve been blessed with big eyes then they’re probably already your most dominant feature. The round eye shape is characterised by have a height the same (or very close to the same) as the length.

So there it is.

The above are simply recommendations based on conventional beauty, but nothing will ever beat your own personal likes and dislikes, so choose a lash style that suits your unique personality and style, and find a lash technician who listens with the skill to get a great result! 🙂

Now in the comments below I’d love for you to write which styles you’ve had – I’m very interested to know if most ladies know what they’re getting, or if their previous salon hasn’t explained the whole ‘style’ thing (or maybe they didn’t even know! eek).

Lash Extension Recommendations for Round Eyes

The main thing you should stay away from is the Open Eye style because it can make your eyes look too big, like you’ve just been surprised. My most common recommendation is the Cat Eye because it will add length to your eye without adding much height and help to balance your eye more toward that desirable Almond shape while still retaining the benefits of your round eyes.

So there it is.

The above are simply recommendations based on conventional beauty, but nothing will ever beat your own personal likes and dislikes, so choose a lash style that suits your unique personality and style, and find a lash technician who listens with the skill to get a great result! 🙂

Now in the comments below I’d love for you to write which styles you’ve had – I’m very interested to know if most ladies know what they’re getting, or if their previous salon hasn’t explained the whole ‘style’ thing (or maybe they didn’t even know! eek).



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